We chat with the Malawian designer to learn how she’s disrupting Africa’s fashion industry.
Lilly Alfonso, an award-winning Malawian fashion designer, is making waves in Africa’s fashion industry. Featured on BBC Africa and CNN’s African Voices, Alfonso is part of a growing class of popular African creatives and designers who are redefining the continent’s position in the global fashion sector.
Residing in Lilongwe, Alfonso creates luxury, ready-to-wear and custom attire. Designed for the “modern African man and woman,” her bespoke designs provide a personalized touch for customers, brandishing each garment in Alfonso’s sleek and chic signature style. Alfonso was inspired by the rich cultural heritage of various African nations. Her designs are an amalgamation of vibrant tones, prints, patterns and colors from Malawi, Zambia, Tanzania, Congo, Nigeria and South Africa, exemplifying Alfonso’s dedication to spotlighting continental creativity through her work.
From her early days sketching and sewing in her veranda in Malawi’s commercial and financial center, Blantyre, to gaining international notoriety, Alfonso is an example of homegrown talent that has risen above the infrastructural challenges that have historically weakened Malawi’s fashion sector. Her work has appeared in fashion shows in Cairo, Paris, London, and more. Alfonso’s rising international presence continues to provide opportunities for emerging African designers to dominate luxury and haute couture spaces, arenas that have predominantly served Western and Asian fashion creatives. She was awarded the International Fashion Designer Award in Cairo in 2019 and 2020, and won the Living Legend award in Malawi’s 2019 Urban Music People (UMP) Awards.
Working closely with local fabric vendors, weavers and tailors, Alfonso always supports her community. Alfonso nurtures her diverse workforce, hiring and empowering tailors with disabilities or from low income and underprivileged backgrounds to create garments that would eventually grace international runways. Her notorious ‘100 year plan’ seeks to strengthen Malawi’s fashion sector for generations to come, making her an instrumental force in developing the industry.
AYO Magazine sat down with Alfonso, to discuss her fashion aspirations, her journey in the fashion world, as well as how she plans to shape and develop Malawi’s fashion industry.
The interview has been edited for length and clarity.
How did you get your start in the fashion world?
I never thought I was a designer, but I saw that I had a very good eye in creating and styling. Throughout my entire childhood and teenage life, I used to wear dresses that I designed myself, or I would have my mum make a dress for me, but I would change it according to the style I liked. Throughout that time, a lot of people used to like my designs. I didn’t know what it meant to be a fashion designer. I just thought I was good at my style. The more people [came], the more I got tired and then I decided to start charging [people]. I started using my mum’s old machine, and in time I found myself getting extra machines, and then getting more people asking me to design for them. Throughout this time, I was designing for so many people. Then there came a time they were doing a competition for fashion designers in 2010 [The Fashion Malawi Edition] and they invited me. I kept saying “No! I’m not a fashion designer.” They said ‘No you are! We’ve seen your work. We wouldn’t want you to miss this opportunity.” But I kept saying “I’m not a fashion designer,” but I ended up accepting. My grandmother at the time convinced me to enter the competition. I said. “No, I don’t think I can do it. She said, ‘No I think you can!” And to my surprise, I was the winning fashion designer. Since then, the journey hasn’t been the same. From that moment on I never looked back.
What inspired you to get into fashion?
Whenever I looked around, as a young girl, I asked myself why wear something normal when you can create something? I have always loved to create something new and extraordinary. The passion grew with age and I got more inspired every day to create, and style my own way. Normal never felt right to me until I changed something.
Can you describe your creative process? What moves and inspires you?
Firstly, I see a need for change in how people dress. Then I imagine what a specific person or people would like. I use people’s personalities, body types and shapes to add to the design. I make sure that the end design should complement them and bring out something they didn’t know existed. Then I sketch it on paper, followed by picking the right fabric and colours. At last, I give and explain to the tailors on what must be done.
Can you tell us about your latest collections, LAwomann, LAMann and LASport?
The collections are inspired by Africa itself. They portray the treasures and wealth of Africa that is not spoken of. They showcase the true African value and pride of the people and the continent.
How are your Malawian roots integrated into your fashion designs and print?
Inspiration comes from all around me. I use people’s lifestyles, culture and many other things to incorporate in my designs. The prints I pick are meant to reflect what Malawi is, through various vibrant colors.
You’ve been inclusive in the manufacturing and creative process. You’ve employed weavers with disabilities and low income communities. Why was it important for you to have a more diverse and inclusive workforce?
All people see in these people is their disability—not their creative minds, values and other contributions. I give them space like anybody else and they proved that they are capable and very good at what they do. They added value more than other people could have. They are determined to deliver [beyond] their challenges. Lilly Alfonso has always been an equal opportunity company and the growth stems from diversity.
Can you elaborate on your ‘100 year plan’?
I see a need for growth in Africa and others in the fashion industry. I want to see a mindset change and more people getting involved and contributing to the fashion [sector]. If this happens, we can pass it on for the next 100 years from generation to generation. I’ll use anything in my power to make this vision happen.
What challenges are there in the fashion sector in Malawi? What challenges did you face moving up in the fashion world?
When I started out, there were a few people involved in fashion. Now, the interest in fashion is growing slowly. There was a lack of support due to a lack of understanding of what fashion really entails. Moving up in the fashion world hasn’t been easy. Coming from a country not well known in fashion brought doubts, but I was determined to push through walls and overcome the odds.
Can you tell us what your plans are for the fashion sector in Malawi? How do you intend to contribute to its development?
The plan has always been there to use my experience, capabilities and strength to continue and elevate fashion in Malawi. I cannot rest until I see the Malawi I always envision when it comes to fashion. I can see some slow changes, but there’s more room for growth for Malawi.
You’re a staunch supporter of empowering the youth through creativity and fashion. What do you think engaging the youth brings to the country?
Investing in the youth. You have [to invest] in the future of generations to come. We shape and build the kind of Africa we want through them. The youth has new ideas that are endless, but unfortunately they give up because of lack of support from society. If they are given space for creativity they will bring wonders.
What more do you think should be done to develop the fashion and design sector in Malawi?
We [should] begin constructing fashion schools, [and introduce] fashion courses and programs in existing schools. This will give those fashion and design aspirants a chance to make a choice in an early stage. If we grow more cotton and have factories to process it, this will give fabric designers a chance to experiment with different fabrics of their choice. This will benefit the design sector [and] various fabrics can be exported.
What do you think of the growing global interest in African designs and fashion?
Africa has been a home of many beautiful creations for so many years. Now that there is this recognition from the rest of the world, it is time to step up and use this opportunity to contribute to the global market. We should design, create and export more of our beautiful creations than ever before.
How do you think we should leverage this growing momentum?
It should start with us Africans; those living in Africa and the diaspora. Let’s create our own identity, then support our own creations. With unity, we can continue to take over the world with African pride.
What advice do you have for young African designers trying to navigate the creative space?
To the young African designers: firstly, they should believe in themselves. They should try and find solutions to problems by using creativity, [as well as] acquire the right information concerning [creativity] and art. There is some much for them to explore.
What is the future for Lilly Alfonso? What do you hope to achieve in the next 10-15 years?
Lilly Alfonso is going global. There’s no question about it. Lilly Alfonso will have its training base where students will have space to learn [the art of fashion and design]. Personally, I will be retiring soon from design. The future is [for] the young ones I have been training. I will just observe and continue [to motivate] them. They need to be given [a] platform for them to grow.
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Adaora Oramah is a Nigerian photographer and creative strategist with a specialized interest in highlighting business developments and trends in Africa’s cultural and creative industries. Adaora has worked at reputable media companies as well as advertising and design agencies including VICE, OkayAfrica, Omnicom’s RAPP Worldwide and Aruliden. Keep up with her on Instagram, LinkedIn and her website.
